SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI has a successful track record when it comes to diversifying in the fashion industry. The London-based designer enjoyed over a decade of success with her eponymous ready-to-wear brand before deciding to focus on bridalwear (to more commercial and critical acclaim) and now she is officially adding another category to the mix: jewellery.
"I have always loved jewellery and have designed many pieces on and off for my shows, collaborating with the Greek goldsmith Lalaounis, and I was quite fond of the process," Kokosalaki told us, explaining that it was a case of waiting for the stars to align before she embarked on the new venture. "I took my time to evaluate the possibilities as it is quite different technically to clothing. I am launching it now as I finally found the space to complete it and also the right technicians and artisans."
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For Kokosalaki, whose distinctive Grecian aesthetic is inspired by her birthplace, the creative side of designing the collection was akin to working with the silks, organzas and laces that she is used to."The tactile and sculptural side of it is so interesting, I enjoy it in exactly the same way I like to work with fabrics and drape clothes," she explained. "This is another medium to tell a story and touch on symbols, myths and references that inspire and move me."
The collection, which comprises earrings, cuffs, upper-arm and wrist bracelets, pendants and rings with secret compartments (injecting a talismanic element), is crafted from wrought Grecian gold, gold-plated silver and freshwater pearls and, in typical Kokosalaki style, has an elusively cool edge.
"I wanted to channel a less girly and mainstream aesthetic while keeping the pieces wearable and very accessible," she said. "I like to create pieces with hidden associations and bringing together many diverse elements and references in the form of small beautiful objects."
It's a standalone offering that can be worn with everything from an everyday T-shirt and jeans to the most decadent of evening gowns, but, as Kokosalaki says, there are certain pieces - like the bold belt made from hammered mussels and the large nine-karat-gold safety pin - that will serve as the perfect complement to a modern bridal ensemble.
As well as aesthetic, the price point was a big thinking point for the designer, who wanted the collection to be accessible without compromising quality or uniqueness.
"It was a massive consideration and it took quite some time and reworking of certain pieces to arrive to these prices," she explained. "There are pieces that start at £350, working up to a maximum of £1,500 for a nine-karat-gold pair of earrings which are all made in workshops across Athens that has a great tradition in jewellery and a lot of very skilled artisans."
The collection, which is on show at the Valery Demure showroom as of today for the rest of Paris Fashion Week, will be available in July, but for now it already has an obvious advocate.
"I am already wearing them all the time and maybe much too often!" the designer laughed. "I wear a lot of black so they are a welcome jolt of luminosity and individuality to my outfit." Shine on Sophia Kokosalaki.
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