Jan Hoek photographs members of society’s most scorned groups—sex workers, the homeless, the addicted—and some of his photos of them are so raw that they can be tough to look at. He’s been accused of exploitation, but does that label acknowledge the agency of the people who consentingly pose for him? Is photography inherently exploitative? Even the comparitively warm and fuzzy portraits by the Humans of New York guy aren't off the hook when it comes to these issues of ethics and photography. In capturing images of people from society's margins, Hoek’s pictures raise fraught questions about how photographers use the power of the camera, especially when poverty, addiction, or oppression have rendered the people in front of it powerless.

His latest project, Sistaaz of the Castle, may raise some of the same issues. Hoek traveled to Cape Town, where he got to know members of the city’s transgender sex worker community. Fashion designer Duran Lantink created couture based upon the South African women’s visions, and Hoek photographed them wearing the outfits. The portraits are presented at the Gashouder as part of Amsterdam’s fashion week, and will later be featured in VICE Magazine. For now, we interviewed Hoek about the project and got some behind-the-scenes photos.

The Creators Project: Why focus on trans sex workers?

Jan Hoek: That they are trans sex worker is just a side-issue, we worked with them because of their buzzling sense of style. Although we do think it is nice from this project that next to the fashion part it also shows the lives of girls who have lives so different than most of us have. And that we hope it shines new bright light on these girls that are normally only in the media in a negative way.

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It seems as though it would be quite challenging to go to a different country, meet members of some of its most marginalized communities, and gain their trust. How did you go about doing that?

Well, a lot of people warned us that we probably would get stabbed and that the trans sex worker girls are extremely dangerous. I never take things like that too seriously. In this case we found out that the trans sex workers were organized in a group called Sistaazhood, that comes every week together at the office of SWEAT, the sex worker advocacy group of Cape Town. It ended up feeling like we now have a new family in Cape Town full of caring and loving new family members: the girls of Sistaazhood! We never felt more safe then in the hands of our new sistaaz.

What was the process behind making the outfits?

The project is in two phases. All the trans sex workers in Cape Town we met are already incredible fashion designers themselves, so the first part of the project consists of documentary photos about their lives, but even more about their skills, creativity and sublime sense of style! The documentary photos are a sort of lookbook of the first part of Duran's collecton that we showed this saturday at the Amsterdam Fashion Week. In the designs he is gonna show, he worked further in the style of the girls and tried to add his own talent to their talent.

The second part are their dream outfits. For the dream outfits we interviewed six of the girls intensively about how they would like to look and live if they had all possibilities of the world, and we made especially for that dream an outfit and in the end made a dream photo, the ones that are gonna be shown in the printed VICE issue in march. For example Gabby wants to work in and own a luxury Victorian-style brothel called Lady Marmalade, so Duran made a luxury Victorian-style brothel manager outfit.

Your work has been somewhat controversial; how do you respond to the criticism that your photos are exploitative?

Well in my work I raise questions about exploitation, so it is logical that people immediately look at my work with these questions in their head. Besides that I think that all photography is exploitative to some extent, even if you make a selfie you exploit yourself. But that doesn't mean automatically that that should be problematic.

In general I see my work more as collaborations in which the voice and wishes of the models are made visible as well. So if models are critical about the photos I've made with them, I show their criticism. But in this case we worked so close with everbody from Sistaazhood, and we are so happy all together with the results, that I think it would be stupid if people would try to problematize this project. But off course I think people will try to do that, they always do. And maybe that is not even such a bad thing.

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As we get older, we kind of need ot up our skincare regime. And this means investing in the best eye cream for wrinkles that your money can buy.

But with oh-so many to choose from it can be a little daunting, even for the beauty savvy - most of us are left wondering where to start. When should we start using one? And most importantly, which one do we invest in?

It's a beauty minefield.

So we're here to make things a whole lot easier, whatever your eye cream SOS, we've got the answer…

What age should I start wearing eye cream?

As a general rule start using eye cream at 18; although it's way to early to be worrying about wrinkles, it's still important to keep eyes hydrated. Beauty Therapist and Skincare Expert, Ada Ooi, explains why, "our eye area lacks sebaceous glands - which means the skin doesn't get oil to the surface so it's easy for dryness to set in. Think about it, whenever your face skin needs moisture, your eyes need a shot of hydration as well." Well moisturised peepers will help your eyes look bright no matter what your age.

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Ok great, so which eye cream is right for me?

This is where your age becomes a bigger factor, as you get older your skin craves different things. Here's what to look for...

Under 28's:

"For you it's all about hydration. Look out for ingredients like marine algae as it'll boost moisture" explains Ada. Super antioxidants like raspberry, green tea and vitamin C and E, will also help brighten up eyes and fade dark circles - perfect for hiding a late night.

Age 28 onwards:

Our eyes lack collagen and elastin fibres (that stop skin from sagging), "keep your eyes looking young by looking for ingredients like Squalene. Squalene can reduce wrinkles, reverse UV damage and lighten dullness" says Ada. Our body's naturally produce squalane, but levels usually start to decline after we hit our mid 20s, so it's better to start topping up early.

Age 35 onwards:

You need ingredients that work hard and can inject moisture into the skin, like hyaluronic acid - which will give a major hydration hit. Peptides are another hero ingredient, they act like a messenger, giving signals for the skin to produce collagen, so it looks smooth and youthful.

How should I store my eye cream?

Eye creams are best kept in cool places to keep the active ingredients from being disturbed by the heat (so steamy bathrooms are a no-no). Keep it in the fridge for optimum condition.

How much eye cream should I use?

A pea-sized drop should be enough for both eyes.

How do I apply eye cream?

Before putting on your eye cream, warm it a little between both fingers. Then apply the cream at the bottom of your eye sockets using your ring finger and gently draw a few inward circles. Repeat this motion just above the eyebrows with any leftover cream on your fingertips. Then, very gently tap the skin in the area, this will help the cream penetrate the skin.

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Women have long complained that those blessed with good looks are more likely to be promoted at work than their less attractive colleagues.

However, a study has found that the opposite may be true of men.

Being handsome can actually impede a man's professional progress, experts found, as male colleagues tend to be reluctant to promote those deemed more good-looking than themselves.

Researchers from University College London's School of Management found that those with the looks of George Clooney or Mad Men's Don Draper were considered competent, but as a result, are perceived as a threat in the workplace.

They are more likely to be rejected for competitive roles requiring individual talent such as sales or investment banking, but picked for jobs in which team performance is rewarded, to enable the decision-maker to further their own career.

The study by academics from the London Business School and the University of Maryland concluded the same did not apply to women, as being pretty is not associated with competence among female stereotypes.

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Dr Sun Young Lee, an assistant professor of organisational behaviour at UCL and the lead researcher, said: "Organisations want to hire competent candidates but individuals have their own agenda.

"When employing someone, they do not want the newcomer to do better than them and show them up." The findings were based on four experiments involving 870 volunteers. Participants were presented with various scenarios in which they had to employ someone for a specific job but had more than one candidate.

The CVs were created to portray candidates with almost identical skill sets and qualifications but the photographs that accompanied them were different.

Lee said: "Managers are affected by stereotypes and make hiring decisions to serve their own self-interests so organisations may not get the most competent candidates.

"With more companies involving employees in recruitment processes, this important point needs attention.

"Awareness that hiring is affected by potential work relationships and stereotyping tendencies can help organisations improve their selection processes." The findings will likely strike a chord with actor Rob Lowe, who last year complained about how tough it had been to further his career because of his good looks.

"There's this unbelievable bias and prejudice against 'good-looking people', that they can't be in pain or they can't have rough lives or be deep or interesting," he told the New York Times.

"They can't be any of the things that you long to play as an actor. I'm getting to play those parts now and loving it.

"When I was a teen idol, I was so goddamn pretty I wouldn't have taken myself seriously."

Lee said her findings suggested that more organisations should appoint external recruitment companies to avoid adverse personalised decision-making.

The study is published in the journal Organisational Behaviour and Human Decision Processes.

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One has the sense of having completed an epic journey, only without the jet lag, when perusing an Etro collection. Cultural inspirations are part of the luxury label’s charm. It’s known for sumptuous and sensuous renditions of botanical splendor and plush prints. For her latest collection, Veronica Etro didn’t disappoint, as she was inspired by the work of the early-20th-century French painter Henri Matisse. Aside from her playful interpretations of his abstract, architectural forms, she tossed away the notions of what color goes with what, and her key looks flaunted the many brilliant hues of the artist’s paper cutouts of the late 1940s and early ’50s.

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In keeping with the low-key luxury vibe, her abstraction was never really abstract: You could always see the nature in it, thanks to the flowers that ran throughout the collection. Long-sleeved dresses were a patchwork of pulsating print, with stronger lines or intense tones, as in the case of a languid silk turquoise-hued dress with a ruched neckline, giving the bohemian silhouettes a relevant modern fix. The Italian house’s signature paisley motif was worked to resemble cutouts on black silk pants or a bomber jacket with bright fur curlicues, which reclaimed a bolder sense of structure.

As a working mother, Veronica is one of the few designers to harness that much-overlooked factor—practicality. Her Javanese-, Moroccan-, and Japanese-inspired silks lean toward city life. Coats with a profusion of chrysanthemums, versatile kimono jackets, and brilliantly colored tunics over pants will be translatable and understandable for a broad range of women.

Like the many divergent moods of Matisse, the designer’s choices of print were similarly flexible and wide. The lineup alternated between the organic and the geometric. Brightly colored tunics and expanses of soft georgette blouses with lush brush-style designs seemingly rendered in gouache were contrasted with the occasional abstract use of diagonals, diamond patterns, and zigzags.

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For most of us, November is the time to start planning for Christmas and New Years; and for the menfolk, at least a few of them, it’s time to “let it grow”. Movember is here and those of you living in the dark, it’s the month when you’ll see friends or colleagues grow their mustaches.

Movember, which stands for moustache + November, is a worldwide movement to raise awareness about prostrate cancer, among other issues faced by men. From making a statement to giving back to the society, men in the city have happily embraced this movement, and apart from their family who are after them to shave, they have no qualms to grow a moustache and also a beard.

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“Movember is upon us now. All ye who have no beard, you mustache a jar of beardoil to live through NoShaveNovember. I challenge you for a noshave contest. And for all my BeardBruh, let it grow. The itch never bothered us anyway,” wrote Rafi Yahya Syed on his Facebook page.

“In all honestly, every month is Movember for me. But now, I can flaunt my manliness,” says Rafi, author of the book Traversers Memoirs, who also works with a website. “And I can be part of Movember without being bothered about my appearance at work because even my boss is on the Movember bus and so is half the office,” he says.

“The goal of Movember is to grow awareness by embracing our hair, which many cancer patients lose during the process. For me, it’s a cause more than just some game for men,” says Zubair Zuby Zu, managing partner for PKS Security Services. “I would be donating money that I generally use for shaving and grooming,” adds Zubair, who admits that a lot of his friends are also giving him company this month, one being Bharath Kumar, who works as a FBA specialist in Amazon.

“Movember signifies fight against cancer. And this is one idea that a lot of my friends have found solidarity with.”

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The Xposé Magazine team have got the scoop on the newest and hottest celebs you need to know about right now.

Annika Krijt

It’s hard to keep up with the onslaught of new models that appear across the gazillion fashion week shows throughout the year. So when one specific model stands out you know that they must be extra special.

Annika Krijt is one of the fresh faced beauties that has caught our eye this season. The 18-year-old has been slaying it on numerous runways since she was first scouted on Facebook.

Those who don’t follow fashion week religiously might recognize her from the latest See by Chloé advertising campaigns. Annika’s idols include Kate Moss, Gisele Bundchen and Doutzen Kroes.

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They might be big stilettos to fill but with her sunny personality and Trojan work ethic this young model is well on her way. Annika’s seal of approval comes from renowned stylist Edward Enninful who named her as one of his four ‘Industry Selects’ on Models. You might as well get used to seeing this face, it’s going to be everywhere!

Elizabeth Debicki

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We love to support our own and 25-year-old actress, Elizabeth Debicki was born in Paris to an Irish mother, which practically makes her one of the family. The young actress hasn’t been on the scene for very long but her natural talent has earned her roles in Baz Luhrmann’s Great Gatsby and Guy Ritchie’s The Man from U.N.C.L.E. Elizabeth also plays supporting roles in two of the most anticipated films of 2015.

She stars as Lady Macduff in Macbeth alongside Michael Fassbender and Marion Cotillard and as Dr Caroline Mackenzie in Everest alongside Jake Gyllenhaal and Keira Knightley. With such stellar supporting roles in such high profile films we’re predicting that it won’t be long before this young lady evolves to be the leading lady. One to watch!

Keke Palmer

If you have a taste for the spooky after Halloween, we recommend tuning in to Scream Queens. The brand new Fox television show is the perfect Pretty Little Liars replacement and will have you screaming with equal measures of fright and laughter. Scream Queens boasts an all star cast with Jamie Lee Curtis, Ariana Grande, Emma Roberts and Lea Michele all making appearances. But it’s Keke Palmer who has caught our attention.

The 22-year-old singer, songwriter and actress is quite experienced having acted alongside Queen Latifah, Eva Mendes and Samuel Jackson. She even starred in one of Mary J. Blige’s legendary music videos! However, we’re predicting that Scream Queens will be her breakout role. You’ll see what we mean when you watch it! Go on…

It's almost Halloween, which means it's time to get ghoulish with your make-up!

You might feel too old to trick and treat this Halloween but that doesn't mean you can't have fun with some monstrous make-up ideas! Whether you're heading to a party or having a night in watching horror flicks, it's fun to embrace the spirit of this spooky holiday.

Hair

If there was ever an excuse to go all-out with your hair it's 31 October! We love a bit of classic backcombing and some temporary spray-in colour. Alternatively, fake it with wigs and accessories.

"Why not completely get into character and add a wig or a headband soaked in red paint to get the blood effect? Alternatively paint a wig with white paint to get an effective ghost look," party experts at Smiffys, the UK's leading fancy dress wholesaler, recommended to Cover Media.

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Nails

Don't forget your nails this Halloween! Aside from dipping into the usual varnishes like slime green and blood red, you could also try some ghoulish nail stamps from MoYou-London. Their Halloween kit comes with carved pumpkin faces that look fab on orange nails. The Gothic Drama stencils would also work perfectly with black and purple polishes.

Make-up

Creepy cosmetics are the crowning glory of any Halloween look.

"Halloween face painting is all about the eyes; creating the correct eye make-up will help perfect your scary look," Smiffys advised. "To make your eyes stand out it is best to use black when adding eyeliner and detail around the eyes. To get the best results, twist the brush to create thinner lines or push down on the brush to achieve thicker lines.

"The eyes are the focal point of the face, so add some stand-out eyelashes for a touch of ghoul glamour and some glitter where appropriate. Then finish with the lips. For vampire looks use a blood red lipstick, or keep it pale and white to achieve a more 'deathly' look."

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